DINING aboard a magnificent train, in the interests of essential research was something I needed to do for my next book.
Sometimes this novelist job of mine really delivers. And even better that I can climb aboard one of the top ten most luxurious trains in the world - fitted out by the illustrious Pullman company - in Wakefield!
Try it out at your peril because even first-class rail in this country will feel like a cattle truck forever afterwards.
The company operates an attractive selection of excursions from various points all over the country, from no-stop lunches, afternoon teas to away-days to Chester, Edinburgh (to tour around the Royal Yacht Britannia), Bath, Royal Ascot, The Chelsea Flower Show, Cornwall... et al, but what fitted our timetable was the ‘Spirit of Travel Lunch’ which would make a slow and winding journey from Wakefield Westgate to Cleethorpes before looping back. Just over a six-hour round trip, in which we would devour a seven-course meal.
It cost £450 each and that included a £75.00 (each) extra charge for a private table rather than end up sharing. Not cheap, but, as I was to find, one of those rare instances in life where you get more than you pay for. There is not one element of this trip which is low-budget, everything is top-notch, it’s an unashamed indulgence, a treat. People who travel on the Belle are in a celebratory mood, whether it’s for a special occasion or just life, the atmosphere is an added free bonus. Guests are on here to make memories.
From the moment you step from the red carpet onto the train, you are back in a gentile world of yesteryear. The only thing missing is the presences of Hercules Poirot. Each of the seven dining carriages is named after one of the great estates or castles in the UK: Glamis, Chatsworth, Harlech etc and uniquely decorated; ours is Alnwick. Each carriage is inlaid with unique wooden-panelled marquetry walls and the ceilings are hand-painted. You sink into the velvet-soft upholstery either side of a table set with blinding-white crisp linen. The view from the windows is a modern Wakefield station, but inside I’m en route to Venice in the 1930s.
A generous complimentary glass of champagne is poured for us as we pull away. Not long after the first course is served: caviar on blini with sour cream, quail egg and a pickled shallot on the side. My partner is a vegetarian, but he’s easily catered for with a caviar equivalent: olive oil pearls that pop in his mouth. As you’d expect, the meat-free options are in no way lazy, everyone is accommodated for. Canapes follow: tikka corn-fed chicken, a tiny naan, mango gel and crispy onions and a wild mushroom tartlet.
I’m already wondering how I’m going to fit in all the other courses, but the meal is spread over the whole trip, and the champagne works miracles as a digestif. I just know that I don’t want to miss a mouthful of this delectable fare so I’m prepared to pace myself.
Bread is served, sour dough and sun-dried tomato for my partner, seeded for me, obviously freshly made, served with artisan butter rounds from Netherend Farm in Gloucester. I’m not a lover of mackerel so I chose an alternative starter before I boarded: a mini ham hock terrine with a curl of pork scratching. Included with the ticket price was a twenty-nine pound credit for a bottle of wine or alternative. Crazy really to have an espresso martini each at this point in the meal, but then this is a day for ripping up ‘what you should do’. They didn’t disappoint.
An intermediate course of pumpkin velouté arrived, primped with a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds and a swirl of pumpkin oil and it was absolutely delicious. Some people really do have the knack of elevating a simple soup. But the chef Matthew Green is from Barnsley, so I’d have been disappointed had it been otherwise. There are travelling musicians on the train working their way down, entertaining each table, serenading the birthday and anniversary people, adding an extra sparkle. They’re easily talented and witty, gliding from songs to repartee with practised aplomb. And as they drift off to the next carriage our mains arrive: something clever with cauliflower and halloumi for my partner, roast chicken for me, which I chose over duck. Everything is so beautifully served on Northern Belle bespoke china, the cutlery polished, the glasses gleaming.
I had a mini tour after mains to meet the chef who is way too modest about his achievements in the galley. I am absolutely floored how small his working space is. It illustrates the military precision needed to run such a catering operation - in which 1600 dishes are washed up and put away for the next trip. Even the compact bathrooms are exquisite with their tiled floors and marquetry, polished brass and fluffy snow-white hand towels.
The scenery is rather lovely outside as we cruise past, although we’ve spent almost all of the trip talking to the couple on the next table, celebrating his fortieth birthday, a trip chosen for him by his partner as ‘something different’. She chose very well because this is the best sort of ‘different’.
A sloe gin dessert for a slow train follows: a creamy truffle éclair with blackcurrant compote, gin gel and oat crumb; sweet with just the right amount of tart to keep it interesting. Washed down with yet another glass of Laurent Perrier champagne, as it would be rude not to.
There’s a further joy in store as a table magician visits us, doing close up wizardry that has us gasping with glee because he’s just materialised a solid golf ball from thin air. It may be sleight of hand, but it’s damned clever and his patter is as slick. Like everything else on this train, a touch of magic that leaves you wanting more.
The cheese arrives after a respectable interval and is every bit as quality as the rest of the menu: a choice of five cheeses: blue, brie, goat’s, a mighty Lincolnshire poacher but claiming the crown for me: the King Charles III cheddar with black truffle. Served with chutney, fruitcake, biscuits and a rich white or red port.
We are slowly wending our way back to our home station but time hasn’t rushed, as if it’s on the same slow clock beat as the train. An exceptional Northern Belle blend of coffee is served in delicate china cups with a duo of handmade chocolates: champagne and salted caramel and our stomachs are now closed for further business. But they are purring with contentment.
When I asked the steward if they have a lot of repeat custom, I knew the answer before she said it. This is the best experience day I’ve ever had. It delivers over and above its promise to give you a grand day out. And yes, we are already booked on it again because once really isn’t enough.
